The debate between cheap and expensive pasta often boils down to bronze-die versus Teflon-die pasta. Dried pasta is made by extruding dough through cutters, or dies. These dies can be made of bronze or the more modern Teflon-coated material. Bronze dies extrude pasta slower than Teflon, impacting the pasta’s appearance, texture, and cooking process.
According to Harold McGee’s “On Food and Cooking,” the low-friction Teflon dies produce pasta with a glossy, smooth surface, fewer pores, and cracks. This means less water absorption during cooking and a firmer texture compared to bronze-die pasta. There are three primary reasons why you might choose bronze-die pasta over Teflon: starch release, sauce retention, and texture.
Bronze-die pasta releases more starch, which contributes to smoother, more stable emulsified sauces. The rough exterior of bronze-die pasta is also thought to hold sauce better. Finally, many find the texture of bronze-die pasta superior. But do these theoretical advantages hold up in practice? Let’s explore with a few experiments.
First, we’ll examine starch release. When pasta cooks, the protein network and starch granules absorb water and expand. The outer protein layer ruptures, releasing starch into the cooking water. Less water penetrates the noodle’s core, so the starch granules there remain largely intact. This means we should observe a difference in starch release between the two pasta types.
To test this, 100 grams of Teflon-cut rigatoni were cooked in 600 grams of boiling water for one minute less than the package directions. The pasta was strained, and the cooking water reserved. The same process was repeated with 100 grams of bronze-die rigatoni. The difference in the cooking water was noticeable.
The bronze-cut pasta absorbed more water and released more starch, evident in the darker color of its cooking water. This extra starch is crucial for creating emulsified pasta sauces. Starch acts as both a thickener and an emulsifier, creating smooth sauces that don’t separate. Classic Roman pasta dishes like Cacio e Pepe, Aglio e Olio, Carbonara, and Amatriciana all rely on starchy pasta water for emulsification.
A basic Cacio e Pepe sauce was made using the cooking water from both pasta types. The sauce made with the starchier bronze-die pasta water emulsified faster and remained more stable. This is a compelling argument for choosing bronze-die pasta.
Next, we tested sauce retention. Bronze-die pasta has a rougher texture, theoretically ideal for clinging to sauce. A dip test was performed, first with dyed water and then with tomato sauce. Both pasta types held the sauce well. While the rough texture of bronze-die pasta seems advantageous, the sauce itself plays a larger role in adherence. A well-emulsified sauce will cling even to a spoon.
The rough texture of bronze-die pasta may offer a slight advantage, but the sauce’s emulsification, facilitated by the released starch, is the primary factor in sauce retention. Further testing with different sauce types might be warranted.
Finally, there’s texture. This is subjective. Bronze-die pasta, cooked for the same time as Teflon-die pasta, has a noticeably different texture. Many prefer the texture of bronze-die pasta, while others might find the firmer texture of Teflon-die pasta more appealing.
In conclusion, bronze-die pasta releases more starch, contributing to more emulsified and stable sauces. It may slightly improve sauce retention, although the sauce itself is more important. And, the texture is different. While both types can produce good pasta dishes, bronze-die pasta often elevates the final result. The extra cost might be worthwhile for those seeking superior sauces and texture.
