Making green bean casserole from scratch might seem daunting, but is it truly superior to the canned version? This taste test compares both methods to determine if the extra time and effort yield a significantly better dish. The goal is to create a homemade version where components can be prepped ahead of time, minimizing Thanksgiving Day workload. Ideally, the homemade casserole will feature vibrant green beans with texture, a flavorful mushroom sauce, and plenty of crispy fried onions.
The canned version is undeniably convenient. Simply combine the ingredients in a baking dish and bake. To replicate this ease, the homemade version will involve prepping three components in advance: blanched green beans, a mushroom demi-glace, and fried onions. These can be made a day ahead, leaving only the final assembly and baking on Thanksgiving.
Fresh green beans are the first step. Trim the ends and cut them into one-inch pieces. Blanch them in boiling salted water for two minutes, then immediately transfer to an ice bath to stop the cooking process and preserve color and texture. After five minutes, drain and spread the beans on a cookie sheet to freeze for at least an hour. Once frozen, store them in a freezer bag until ready to use.
The next component is the mushroom demi-glace, which forms the base of the mushroom cream sauce. Instead of freezing the entire sauce, which can negatively impact its texture, only the demi-glace will be prepared and frozen. This vegetarian demi-glace, inspired by ChefSteps, provides rich roasted vegetable flavor and umami.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Thinly slice a variety of vegetables, avoiding overly sweet options. Kombu seaweed can be added for extra umami. Combine the vegetables with tomato paste and olive oil, then roast for approximately two hours, tossing every 30 minutes, until browned and dehydrated.
Transfer the roasted vegetables to a stockpot and add 2.5 liters of water. Return to the oven for 45 minutes to extract the flavors. Strain the liquid back into the pot and reduce it by half over medium heat. Season with salt, MSG, and a thickener like pectin or gelatin. For the final touch, add dried porcini mushrooms for a deeper mushroom flavor during the last 10 minutes of simmering. Mix salt, MSG, and pectin into a paste with a small amount of the demi-glace before whisking it into the pot to prevent clumping. Pour the finished demi-glace into ice cube trays and freeze.
For the crispy fried onions, thinly slice an onion and pat dry with paper towels. Toss the onion slices with cornstarch to enhance crispiness. Fry in peanut oil heated to 325°F until golden brown, working in batches if needed. Season with salt and place on a wire rack to cool and crisp up. Store in an airtight container at room temperature or freeze on a baking sheet for an hour before transferring to a freezer container.
On Thanksgiving Day, the assembly process is quick. Sauté mushrooms in butter with salt and pepper until browned. Add minced garlic, butter, and flour, cooking for a minute. Deglaze with wine, then add 250 grams of mushroom demi-glace cubes and simmer for two minutes. Stir in half-and-half and reduce until thickened, about 10 minutes. Combine the thickened sauce with the frozen green beans and a handful of fried onions. Heat through, then transfer to a baking dish, top with more fried onions, and bake at 400°F for 10-15 minutes until bubbly.
Finally, the taste test. The homemade casserole boasts vibrant green beans, a rich and flavorful mushroom sauce, and crispy, flavorful fried onions. The canned version, in contrast, falls flat, with mushy beans, bland sauce, and tasteless onions. The homemade version is undeniably worth the effort, especially when the components are prepped in advance.
