Choosing the right canned tomatoes can be overwhelming. Diced or whole peeled? San Marzano or San Marzano style? Why the vast price differences? This deep dive explores six different canned tomatoes at various price points, origins, and varieties, putting them through three rigorous tests to determine if the premium price of San Marzano tomatoes is justified.
Whole peeled tomatoes were chosen for this experiment due to their stricter regulations and versatility. Being the least processed form, they generally offer better consistency in flavor and texture. Plus, they can be easily diced, crushed, or pureed at home as needed.
The six contenders included a generic store brand, a deceptively marketed “San Amican” tomato, a high-end Bianco DiNapoli, a San Marzano style tomato, a third-party certified San Marzano, and a DOP-certified San Marzano.
The tomatoes in the cans varied in size and shape, but interestingly, all were plum tomato varieties. Plum tomatoes, especially San Marzanos, are prized for their higher flesh-to-seed ratio and lower water content, making them ideal for sauces.
A raw taste test revealed noticeable differences in texture and flavor. The Roma tomatoes, found in the generic and San Amican cans, were strangely firm, likely due to the addition of calcium chloride, a common firming agent. The San Marzano varieties offered a softer, less “canned” flavor.
Calcium chloride isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker if you blend your tomatoes, but it raises questions about its impact on taste. Canned tomatoes typically contain the tomato variety, tomato juice or puree, salt, citric acid (for pH balance), and sometimes flavorings.
A pH test showed that the Italian imports were slightly less acidic, although the impact on taste is debatable. A key variable is the growing location. Italian DOP certification guarantees that the tomatoes are authentic San Marzanos grown in the designated region near Mount Vesuvius.
The most crucial test involved making a simple tomato sauce using equal amounts of each tomato variety. The results were telling: the sauces made with the Roma tomatoes (with calcium chloride and watery tomato juice) were noticeably thinner and more acidic. The San Marzano and San Marzano style tomatoes, packed in a thicker puree, produced richer, smoother sauces.
A final test using a butter chicken recipe further solidified the findings. While the spices and cream masked some of the acidity, the Roma tomatoes still produced a less desirable result. The San Marzano and San Marzano style tomatoes again shone, creating a smoother, more balanced sauce.
The key takeaway isn’t about crowning a single brand as the ultimate winner. It’s about understanding the factors that influence canned tomato quality. Avoid cans with calcium chloride and watery tomato juice. Look for cans packed in tomato puree and those specifying the plum variety used. Ultimately, the best approach is to experiment with different brands to find your perfect match.
